Dry All Wet Emergency Kit

Jeffrey

Premium Member
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Location
Thailand
Current Phone Model
iPhone 7 Plus JB
Recently, there has been quite a few posts regarding hot tubbing with your phone, dropping it in the toilet and running it through a washing cycle.
Here is a $14.50 investment which could save you hundreds down the road.​

View attachment 71808

This is not an endorsement, just an FYI.


[video=youtube;dmnS3kUqEo0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dmnS3kUqEo0[/video]


Wet Cellular Phone Emergency Kit
Dries Any Wet Cell Phone Fast Using Blue Bead Technology™


  • [*=left]Dry your wet phone completely in 48 hours.
    [*=left]100% success rate*
    [*=left]Dry-All beads are inert & non-flammable.
    [*=left]Single use disposable packaging.
When a cell phone gets soaked most cell phone insurances do not cover water damage. So what do you do if you end up with a wet cell phone?
Now you can absorb all of the moisture in your wet phone quickly, allowing the phone to continue working as normal without losing your contacts, applications, pictures, or music.The Wet Cell Phone Emergency Kit is the most effective and aggressive dehumidifier for electronics available today and is guaranteed to dry all types of cell phones, iPods, or other electronics devices that have been exposed to any type of moisture.The Wet Cell Phone Emergency Kit, much like a medical emergency kit, is a good idea to have on hand in case of a wet cell phone emergency.
* Dry-All assures a 100% success rate when all of the products' directions are followed.



 
When Electronics Get Dunked - it needs full rescue within minutes.
Electronics when made are Baked.
Only G-Forced bake process - fully functional within 2 hours.

Letting electronics sit soaked for days - Insane.
Circuit boards under microscope would show corrosion path at every soldered joint.
All resistors to diodes would take on new values - or shorted.

Electronics like MBP 13" $3000.00 laptops - the battery is not removable.
Full G-forced recovery of full submersion has to take place within minutes.

The insane Rice paddy in a bowl nonsense - now beads?
Right. We'd have ended up with $3K of worthless billet Aluminum.

Now the dunked Coke in the keys trick- to plating electronics.
Stick in down into beads/rice - to form a new epoxy?
It's needs full emersion flush - G-forced heat recovery.
Best of Luck -
 
I didn't understand a lot of this post; there seemed to be a lot of sentence fragments and jargon. What is "G-Forced" bake process? And what has $3,000 laptops got to do with it?
 
I mentioned this before but it's on an older thread and no sense in trying to dig it up.

If your phone goes swimming the keys to successful recovery are first, if possible to remove the battery. The minute electronics can be quickly and irreversibly damaged by the high current and voltage from the battery traveling along shorts in the circuitry caused by common water sources.

Water, which is a conductor (except for the most pure water such as distilled or deionized), creates paths for the battery's full voltage and current to travel and can enable such high voltages and currents to pass through highly sensitive components and integrated circuits at levels which can melt the microscopic traces and wires in them.

The second, and perhaps equally important piece of advice is to get all the water out of the device as quickly and completely as possible. This is where a trick I created works wonders to speed up the process. Take an old tube sock and slide the phone onto it positioned so the bottom edge of the phone is in the toe of the sock and it's vertical in the sock.

Next, either go outside or in an area of your home with plenty of clearance around you and high ceilings and begin swinging the sock around in circles as fast as you can and for as long as you can. The centrifugal force created by swinging the sock in a large circle fast will cause the water in the device to "spin out". This, if done before you place the device into a rice or another desiccant such as the beads mentioned, will make the phone nearly completely dry and leave only the remaining surface moisture inside for the desiccant to remove. This speeds up the drying process significantly, cutting drying time by a wide margin, and could be the difference between a full recovery and a partial or complete failure.
 
When Electronics Get Dunked - it needs full rescue within minutes.
Electronics when made are Baked.
["baked" in the industry is a synonym for "dried", where it can either be air dried at a nominal room temperature or at an elevated temperature]

Only G-Forced bake process - fully functional within 2 hours.
[G-Forced bake process is the same as above but where the "force" is an air-flow (think fan), and the process is almost always done at an elevated temperature. From Curing Methods "Air Drying (AKA Baking). In air drying, a coating film is formed by the evaporation of solvent, which leaves behind a solid film. The rate of drying is governed by how quickly the solvent evaporates. Moderate heat (below 194°F) can be applied to accelerate evaporation (called force drying), however, the process still basically remains one of air drying."]

Letting electronics sit soaked for days - Insane.
[Self-explanatory...he's sayind don't do this!]

Circuit boards under microscope would show corrosion path at every soldered joint.
[This is what the results would be if the water or other liquid were left in the device for an extended period of time. Corrosion is a break-down of the board traces and/or the creation of "shunts" or "shorts" between one and an adjoining other board trace or soldered contact. Oxygen is the main culpret of corrosion however it needs a catalyst to create the electrical path between the two traces or solder joints in order to begin or accelerate the corrosion process. The water is the catalyst and the oxygen (H - Hydrogen and O - Oxygen are the two atomic substances that make up water in a mollecule of H2O where there are two atoms of Hydrogen and one atom of Oxygen). Since water both conducts electricity and contains Oxygen it makes a perfect environment and catalyst to induce rapid corrosion. Corrosion will actually eat through the Copper traces (printed wires), on the motherboard, and will create undesired electrical paths between contacts which are supposed to be electrically isolated or insulated but instead become electrically connected to some degree. These new paths, and the ones cut off by the corrosion are what result in complete and catastrophic failure of the electronics.]

All resistors to diodes would take on new values - or shorted.
[Electrical components, Resistors, Diodes, Capacitors, Transistors, etc...the components that make up the entire circuit are all specified in very precise values to perform their tasks. By allowing them to remain in a solution of water, their own values can change or be completely destroyed. Even if they're not completely destroyed, a resistor for instance with a value of 1,000 Ohms, might actually be reduced to as little as 10 Ohms for example allowing more current to pass than was specifiec by the next component in line, causing a failure of that next component or one or more farther down the path of the circuit from that resistor. This would result in the failure of the circuit to perform its duty as expected and could result in complete faiure of the entire device, or could just cause it to act "flaky" and do strange things.]

Electronics like MBP 13" $3000.00 laptops - the battery is not removable.
[Not sure really where he was going with this except to say that even expensive devices may have batteries that are not removable, and so they would be even more succeptible to damage from water and in a much faster timeframe since the battery would be providing electricity to accelerate the corrosion process.]

Full G-forced recovery of full submersion has to take place within minutes.
[I believe he's referring to the situation where an expensive device has a non-removable battery as mentioned above. Since there is a battery supplying electricity to the board, it will accelerate the corrosion process since it can't be disconnected from the board. Therefore it becomes even more critical (I say hyper-critical), to both fully submerse and remove any foreign matter such as salt water by bathing it in Alcohol, preferrably near 100% alcohol, and then drying it quickly if you hope to have any chance of recovery.]

The insane Rice paddy in a bowl nonsense - now beads?
[He is saying that although Rice in a bowl MAY work, and now the new dessicant beads, they are NOT the most efficient, nor are they the most reliable methods. Even methods like I mentioned below using centrifugal force to "spin" the water out is more effective than simply placing the device into a dessicant. Dessicants take TIME to work, and in the case of an electronic circuit board which is wet, and possibly also in a solution that contains other things like salt (from the sea), or detergents (from the clothes washer), or urine which is acidic (from the toilet), you don't TIME to waste.]

Right. We'd have ended up with $3K of worthless billet Aluminum.
[The results in his world of waiting for dessicant to work...complete failure]

Now the dunked Coke in the keys trick- to plating electronics.
[This must be some underground "trick" to an attempt to re-plate or protect otherwise compromised electronics. In the real world, most of these "tricks" work poor at best and in many cases only make matters far worse. Has anyone seen what Coke (aka Coca Cola), will do to things left in it for a while??? Shocking is the best description. Coca Cola is quite corrosive. In other words...a BIG no-no.]

Stick in down into beads/rice - to form a new epoxy?
[Further ridicule of the concept of rice or dessicant beads, in that any "epoxy" (aka the slightly brown colored glaze that is over the entire motherboard covering all Copper traces (wires), to prevent corrosion, will not repair itself. If it's been compromised, that is washed off, it will leave the Copper exposed to the elements and over time the Copper traces will corrode (Oxidize), turn Green and eventually break completely down into Copper Oxide and lose their conductivity - i.e. broken circuit.]

It's needs full emersion flush - G-forced heat recovery.
[Full Immersion (not emersion) flush to rid the board of any further catalysts such as salt, acids, alkalines, etc., then G-forced heat recovery, or heated and forced air, to speed up the drying process are critical to reaching the highest chance of full recovery.]

Best of Luck -

I didn't understand a lot of this post; there seemed to be a lot of sentence fragments and jargon. What is "G-Forced" bake process? And what has $3,000 laptops got to do with it?

I agree that the sentences are less sentences and more bullet points. To decipher, see my answers above under each line.

From my point of view, what he's said is both highly technical, and also very accurate and valuable information, but like most highly technical, engineer types, they have some level of difficulty bringing it down to the level of the layperson to understand. Fortunately for me (and you), I have the knack for both the highly technical and the layperson explanation so this should help (hopefully).

His post was a good one and I for one am glad to have him as a member. I will try to be there to assist in translation when I can.
 
I mentioned this before but it's on an older thread and no sense in trying to dig it up.

If your phone goes swimming the keys to successful recovery are first, if possible to remove the battery. The minute electronics can be quickly and irreversibly damaged by the high current and voltage from the battery traveling along shorts in the circuitry caused by common water sources.

Water, which is a conductor (except for the most pure water such as distilled or deionized), creates paths for the battery's full voltage and current to travel and can enable such high voltages and currents to pass through highly sensitive components and integrated circuits at levels which can melt the microscopic traces and wires in them.

The second, and perhaps equally important piece of advice is to get all the water out of the device as quickly and completely as possible. This is where a trick I created works wonders to speed up the process. Take an old tube sock and slide the phone onto it positioned so the bottom edge of the phone is in the toe of the sock and it's vertical in the sock.

Next, either go outside or in an area of your home with plenty of clearance around you and high ceilings and begin swinging the sock around in circles as fast as you can and for as long as you can. The centrifugal force created by swinging the sock in a large circle fast will cause the water in the device to "spin out". This, if done before you place the device into a rice or another desiccant such as the beads mentioned, will make the phone nearly completely dry and leave only the remaining surface moisture inside for the desiccant to remove. This speeds up the drying process significantly, cutting drying time by a wide margin, and could be the difference between a full recovery and a partial or complete failure.

The staff of DF will not be held liable if you happen to let that sock go while swinging.

like-a-helicopter-o.gif
 
The staff of DF will not be held liable if you happen to let that sock go while swinging.

like-a-helicopter-o.gif
Darn Funny - But Spot On Captain - lol. G-Force...
 
I didn't understand a lot of this post; there seemed to be a lot of sentence fragments and jargon. What is "G-Forced" bake process? And what has $3,000 laptops got to do with it?

a. MBP right out of the box = $3k & Wk later under water.
Fully rescued & using right now.
Baked = Electric heater, forced air right at it overnight in closed space at roughly 200F while laptop is open & sitting on edge at angle on padded material to make any water go to the bottom corners.

G'-factor - Any action max applied to force water out - w/o loosing grip.
Till not one more drop of water exits.
One could modify a custom rack - on spin cycle of washing machine.

Not Rocket Science, but lobby was only option at Holiday Inn.
 
a. MBP right out of the box = $3k & Wk later under water.
Fully rescued & using right now.
Baked = Electric heater, forced air right at it overnight in closed space at roughly 200F while laptop is open & sitting on edge at angle on padded material to make any water go to the bottom corners.

G'-factor - Any action max applied to force water out - w/o loosing grip.
Till not one more drop of water exits.
One could modify a custom rack - on spin cycle of washing machine.

Not Rocket Science, but lobby was only option at Holiday Inn.
Pretty much validates all my explanations. The G-force thing is my sock idea.
 
Ever try to dry one dripping wet cotton sock in the dryer on cold air only? Good luck 3 days later.
 
Ever try to dry one dripping wet cotton sock in the dryer on cold air only? Good luck 3 days later.
Agreed. The sock is just to force out the bulk of water, then the rest of your explanation would follow.
 
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