Had the phone for about a week or so now. Did battery protocol, rooted, then nothing else (busy as all hell, this is the first time I've had time to sit and relax and do nothing, and it's not going to last)
Stock the battery is nice, outperforms stock DX, that having been said, my undervolted profiles use on the DX made it have better battery than the Razr Maxx stock. The use of a good ROM also meant that while I was using less voltage with a lower processor frequency, it was still faster and snappier than stock. I'm looking around for info on this, but it doesn't look like there's anything as full featured and amazing as Android Overclock for the Razr (if there is, post here please), and I'm worried that since it's snappy stock, people won't be deving roms to make it snappier with lower voltages, so it might turn out that undervolting and profiles will make it slower, with no ROM to compensate very well like the ROMs for the DX.
But that's not that bad. With little use, the battery doesn't get past 60% (I hate not having 1% increments, going to fix that when I have time) over a day or so, snappy, ROMs will just make it look better and add features worse case scenario (worse case is ROM ruins phone, but that's remedied by finding better ROM, easy to read comments and see results)
There could not be more bloatware. Has almost double the apps of my DX BEFORE I started downloading them. The "battery saving" profiles look like nothing more than night time mode on the DX, I don't see substantial battery saving from it.
All in all, I like the phone, the huge battery gives you a lot to work with, better screen and such, good stock, definitely a good choice.
Question; You mention "battery protocol", could you elaborate for the crowd?
Also, going with battery metering at 1% increments, although providing greater precision, will not necessarily yield greater accuracy of representation of the battery's State of Charge (SoC). Lithium Ion Polymer Pouch cells (the ones in the RAZR and RAZR MAXX) have a uniquely flat slope of voltage during the largest range of the SoC, between about 20% remaining and between about 80% to 100%. See below:
View attachment 50554
It's this ability to maintain a highly stable voltage over the greatest portion of the discharge cycle that makes it such a good battery for our purposes, however it comes at a cost. The meter has an extremely difficult time knowing just where in the discharge cycle the battery is. Furthermore, varying discharge rates due to using small, moderate and large amounts of power in intervals throughout the day results in varying voltages and creates additionally confusing data for the meter. See below:
View attachment 50553
By monitoring the remaining capacity so closely you'll find yourself often getting frustrated at what seems like large amounts of power lost over relatively short periods of time, and an especially rapid decline from near 20% to the depths of the discharge cycle. It's not unlike a car's "Distance till empty" gauge in that it monitors both "levels" (*read voltage), and consumption rate (*read load or rate of power use) and tries to come up with an iterative solution to the levels. This is the main reason why the meter can become very skewed from the actual SoC and start to mislead both in charge level and in when the phone is critically discharged. This can be even more of an issue if you frequently recharge before the battery reaches the 15% "Low battery" level and especially if it never gets there (as you mention rarely getting below 60%).
The battery is not like a gas tank, where there is a set level at maximum safe capacity (where the pump shuts off automatically), which remains the same until the tank develops a leak, and a true level of "empty" when there is no more Gasoline and the car stalls. Batteries are more like a shrinking reservoir which holds less and less charge as time goes on, and this also creates a problem for the meter since it must "see" the new points where the levels reach maximum charge and where they start dropping off rapidly (charge and discharge flags) in order to adjust it's reference data and know what the new, lower capacity is over time and then be able to make more accurate iterative estimates of SoC at any point in the discharge cycle. See below:
View attachment 50555
Note: Image above shows 10% as the discharge flag set-point, however in our phones it's 15% "Low battery".
Therefore, doing routine charge and discharge cycles that never meet those flag points means the meter is running off of estimates that begin to stray from actual levels more and more as time progresses and charge cycles are completed. There is a way to "train" or re-train the meter to the levels and make sure your meter is most accurate all the time.
Steps are as follows:
- At the next opportunity where you won't need the phone for at least 3 hours, power the phone off (hold Power button, and then select "Power off").
- Plug the stock wall adapter and stock charging cable into the wall outlet and phone (the phone will boot into charge only mode).
- Allow the phone to charge to 100% capacity (to check at any point along the way, briefly tap either the up or down volume buttons).
- Once the phone has reached 100% capacity, disconnect, power up and use normally (but watch the meter as it nears 15%).
- Once the phone reaches 15% and the screen displays the "Low battery" warning and "bongs" at you, power the phone off as soon after as possible (note: DO NOT let it drain to 0%).
- Now, repeat steps 1 through 4.
Good luck and let's hear more from you! :biggrin:
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