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Do you experience battery issues?

Have you experienced battery issues?

  • Yes

    Votes: 3 42.9%
  • No

    Votes: 4 57.1%

  • Total voters
    7
And that would normally be true of a solid narrow or thin block of metal however the battery is a series of very thin sheets of flexible metal (could be a dozen or more depending on the voltage required), separated by a very low thermally conductive Lithium paste (the electrolyte), then folded into a wallet style configuration similar to a billfold, and with the anode at the middle of the entire folded package.
d3.jpg


And with each layer of the paste separating the layers of conducive material you have a greater resistance to thermal conductivity.

It's not too much different in architecture than a standard round or barrel shaped battery except if you were to take that battery and basically squash it flat.

rchg-cyl.jpg


Still my point is not that the battery will or won't get hotter as a whole, but that the anode will get much hotter but for shorter bursts of time. The net result of total heat generated in terms of BTUs may be similar but the intensity of that heat at the surface of the anode (where the actual damage occurs), will be higher for periods of time as a result of the higher voltage and current applied in those short durations. It's that higher anode temperature that results in battery degradation over time.

And just for reference, I've included a couple charts below to show people what I'm dealing with. By the way this is a droid turbo which is supposed to be a 48-hour life span but as you'll see I've got just about 8 hours out of it and I'm already at 20%. This is exactly the reason that I baby my battery and I'm looking to get as much out of it in life span as I can, as well as in runtime per charge.

Your results may vary, and your decisions whether or not to baby your battery will likely be influenced by those results. I'm just trying to give people some understanding of the hows and whys and if they choose to use my information that's up to them.

8e7d8d34c42b7d0eaa0e14bd5163e6e8.jpg
1c58e41ca219cf957041db8402327298.jpg
 
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And that would normally be true of a solid narrow or thin block of metal however the battery is a series of very thin sheets of flexible metal (could be a dozen or more depending on the voltage required), separated by a very low thermally conductive Lithium paste (the electrolyte), then folded into a wallet style configuration similar to a billfold, and with the anode at the middle of the entire folded package.
d3.jpg


And with each layer of the paste separating the layers of conducive material you have a greater resistance to thermal conductivity.

It's not too much different in architecture than a standard round or barrel shaped battery except if you were to take that battery and basically squash it flat.

rchg-cyl.jpg


Still my point is not that the battery will or won't get hotter as a whole, but that the anode will get much hotter but for shorter bursts of time. The net result of total heat generated in terms of BTUs may be similar but the intensity of that heat at the surface of the anode (where the actual damage occurs), will be higher for periods of time as a result of the higher voltage and current applied in those short durations. It's that higher anode temperature that results in battery degradation over time.

And just for reference, I've included a couple charts below to show people what I'm dealing with. By the way this is a droid turbo which is supposed to be a 48-hour life span but as you'll see I've got just about 8 hours out of it and I'm already at 20%. This is exactly the reason that I baby my battery and I'm looking to get as much out of it in life span as I can, as well as in runtime per charge.

Your results may vary, and your decisions whether or not to baby your battery will likely be influenced by those results. I'm just trying to give people some understanding of the hows and whys and if they choose to use my information that's up to them.

8e7d8d34c42b7d0eaa0e14bd5163e6e8.jpg
1c58e41ca219cf957041db8402327298.jpg
Wow! Compared to this, I have great battery life. What's your average screen on time?

✋ Sent from my Droid Turbo with Tapatalk
 
Wow! Compared to this, I have great battery life. What's your average screen on time?

✋ Sent from my Droid Turbo with Tapatalk
Well that's just it, the screen on time can be 7 or 8 hours, but it's not just screen on time, it's also various apps running in the background, updates being done over the web, photos and videos syncing to the cloud, and communication with my watch that collectively are putting a tremendous burden on my battery. I don't get to run wifi much, because wifi at work has so many restrictions being that I work for a bank. Most sites that provide the ad feeds for the pages that we go to, or the ones feed to our forum are blocked so what happens is when I go on various sites or even on the forums, the ads stall and unfortunately I get nowhere. So I'm forced to run on 4G and or 3G whichever happens to be available.

Adding to the issues is the fact that my building backs up to a Septa (train), station and there's a very large electric grid substation for the power supplied to the train rails also immediately behind my building. There are large towers and lots of high voltage lines and lots of large fuses and transformers on the ground. This results in probably what would be considered pretty substantial radio frequency interference, contributing to poor communication even when I have halfway decent signal level. All this means pretty significant consumption of battery during the time I'm at work which is most of the day.
 
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Yeah, don't do that. It's a lithium battery, not a NiCad. Calibrate the meter by charging to 100% with the phone off, then use the phone normally until you reach 15%. Then recharge back to 100% with the phone off again. Why?
Way to much to type, @FoxKat will be around in a while to explain :)
 
Yeah, don't do that. It's a lithium battery, not a NiCad. Calibrate the meter by charging to 100% with the phone off, then use the phone normally until you reach 15%. Then recharge back to 100% with the phone off again. Why?
Way to much to type, @FoxKat will be around in a while to explain :)
Hahaha, you've done a great job of providing the Cliff Notes! [emoji6] [emoji106]

But yes, draining to 0% you run the risk of deep discharging the battery due to the meter being out of calibration, and causing the phone to become unresponsive to the charger and any attempts to power it back on. In the past with Motorola phones this was called the "white light of death" because the phones would not take a charge but would display a white LED light indicating a problem with the battery/charging system.

The low battery flag is set at 15% so there is no need to discharge much below that level.
 
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When I hit the sack I power off my Turbo and keep it off until the morning. Will being off for 7 to 8 hours a day help extend, hurt or no difference in the lifespan of my battery?

=^.".^=
 
My RAZR HD was rooted and ROM'ed. I had the 1% Battery mod. That thing was awesome. My battery went FOREVER using that. :D

And the Turbo Battery warning is 14%, isn't it? That's when I get my first notice.
 
When I hit the sack I power off my Turbo and keep it off until the morning. Will being off for 7 to 8 hours a day help extend, hurt or no difference in the lifespan of my battery?

=^.".^=
Any time you DON'T charge the LiPo battery (as long as it has about a 50% partial charge), it's actually a GOOD thing. Think of the battery like a balloon in a way. Left in the package you bought it, completely deflated, it will last until the rubber breaks down, maybe 2-3 years or so. Fully inflated it's under extreme stress and will break down rather quickly, possibly in as little as a few weeks. If partially inflated, it will last nearly as long as completely deflated, but will eventually fail though sooner than if not inflated at all. If inflated and deflated repetedly, it will break down even faster than if left either partially or fully deflated.

Any time you move electrons inside a battery, no matter what the process, whether through ionization process (our batteries us the Lithium Ion Exchange process ), or typical battery chemistry, the components degrade over time. Some batteries do better with constant charge being applied, such as Lead Acid batteries (the kind in your car, motorcycle or lawn tractor). If you connect a "float charger" to the car battery while it sits in your driveway and in the parking lot at work, in other words the battery is constantly being kept at full charge, it will last MANY years longer, some have reported 20 years out of a 5-year battery. It's the fact that Lead Acid chemistry "likes" to be fully charged at all times and "dislikes" the periods of no charging when it then self-depletes and the Acid begins to decompose the plates internally. So then each time you start the car, it's first further depleted, then charged. That "cycling" of charge is one of the causes of the battery degrading over time, along with the acid reaction.

In the case of other battery chemistries, some prefer to be charged only to near then disconnected, and don't like to be depleted to near emply, and if charged prefer to be only partially charged (like adding water to a half-full glass to take it to three quarters full), in the middle of the charge cycle more frequently as in the case of LiPo batteries (the one in your phone), Others prefer to be charged fully, disconnected and then depleted fully (as in Nickel Cadmium batteries). So it has EVERYTHING to do with the particular battery chemistry.

Again, the short answer to your question is that as long as there is SOME charge remaining - at least enough that while sitting on the nightstand it won't further self-deplete to below 0%, you should be fine and not worry. And the fact that you're not charging it does extend its lifespan some. Even with power off, the battery will self-deplete some but at a very slow rate in the lower charge levels. LiPo battery manufacturers partiallly charge new batteries to 40% - 50% and then warehouse them. This is the safest levels of charge to store them for a long time, but I'm talking months, not days. You have nothing to worry about if it's overnight, unless the phone was at 5% before going to sleep as an example.
 
My RAZR HD was rooted and ROM'ed. I had the 1% Battery mod. That thing was awesome. My battery went FOREVER using that. :D

And the Turbo Battery warning is 14%, isn't it? That's when I get my first notice.

Well, I get a the low battery color change on the weather widget of the front screen warning that it's below 20%, but the actuall "connect to your charger now" notice comes at either 15% or 14%, I'm not sure which, but either way, it's c. 15%. As for the "low battery flag" which is an internal data field stored for the metering and charging system, that happens at exactly 15%.
 
How long have you had it?
Since January, I think. I'd have to look again to see, but this is actually a replacement from an earlier one. I (yes me), broke my screen by dropping it face down on a tile floor. I leaned forward and it fell out of my shirt pocket (where I keep it). So this phone is a CLNR (one-time free replacement). The original one I purchased was shortly after release.

So in my case, I don't know the condition of the battery when I received it because it could have been abused by a former owner.
 
Yes I have around 75 to 90 % battery when I shut it down for the evening.

In those cases, you're in great shape. If you have that much power left at the end of a day, you're going to benefit GREATLY from the Turbo Charger. Use the phone to down around maybe 25% - 40%, then do the 15 to 30 minute boost with the Turbo Charger to give you another 30% - 50% (actually avoiding charging to 100%). If you do that, your battery will easily last 2 or more years. You could have this phone into 2017 or later and still be getting comparable battery performance. If you do the boost charging to say, 85% or 90% with a standard charger, your battery life will be even greater!
 
In those cases, you're in great shape. If you have that much power left at the end of a day, you're going to benefit GREATLY from the Turbo Charger. Use the phone to down around maybe 25% - 40%, then do the 15 to 30 minute boost with the Turbo Charger to give you another 30% - 50% (actually avoiding charging to 100%). If you do that, your battery will easily last 2 or more years. You could have this phone into 2017 or later and still be getting comparable battery performance. If you do the boost charging to say, 85% or 90% with a standard charger, your battery life will be even greater!
So you're saying that an overnight charge to 100% on a standard charger isn't good?

✋ Sent from my Droid Turbo with Tapatalk
 
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