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That's a nice sub. The only big thing to watch out for in a truck is where you're going to put it and what kind of box your going to use.

Subs require a certain amount of air space inside the box for them to work properly and hold up. I didn't see what they recommended on that sub but it's something to keep in mind.

I know they make really nice custom boxes that go under the rear seat on those rams but they can get pricey. I'll look into the sub more here a little later and see what it needs to be in

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I saw some of their boxes and they are proud of them. I think 10" is as bug as I want to go. If I can get an 8" then I'm sure it'll take up less room. The biggest thing for me is that I'm not familiar with car audio products enough to know what's good and what's an overpriced rip off.

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I saw some of their boxes and they are proud of them. I think 10" is as bug as I want to go. If I can get an 8" then I'm sure it'll take up less room. The biggest thing for me is that I'm not familiar with car audio products enough to know what's good and what's an overpriced rip off.

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An 8" sub in that big of a truck won't be really noticeable without way more work and money than its worth. A single 10 will be your best bet. The boxes are pricey but the fact they use otherwise un used/unusable space really makes them worth it in the long run.

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I was dreaming yesterday while looking for speakers & checking out all of the custom boxes that would fit my Sierra. Under the rear seat, in the center console. They're really quite crafty, but in the case of my truck, the ones I was checking out were $400+ for just a box.

More than I'd spend total on this old truck. Haha.
 
I was dreaming yesterday while looking for speakers & checking out all of the custom boxes that would fit my Sierra. Under the rear seat, in the center console. They're really quite crafty, but in the case of my truck, the ones I was checking out were $400+ for just a box.

More than I'd spend total on this old truck. Haha.
I've built a few center counsels that had subs and goodies built into them. I wish camera phones were around then I'd still have photos probably. I had a bunch but my own partner stole the computer they were all on when he left for NH.

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Hey @Miller6386 , do you have any thoughts on this amp? And how, if possible, would I connect the sub? Use one channel or both?
 
That's a nice amp for the price. The sub is in a HUGE box for a truck. It will take up a lot of real estate. I need to look up the sub model to see if it's DVC and at what ohms. But I'd for sure say the amp looks like a good deal.

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That's a nice amp for the price. The sub is in a HUGE box for a truck. It will take up a lot of real estate. I need to look up the sub model to see if it's DVC and at what ohms. But I'd for sure say the amp looks like a good deal.

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The 10" is $40 less but not too much smaller. It will fit in the back with the seats up & I'm usually by myself so that's not a big deal. I'm curious to see what you have to say about speakers.

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Be careful making that decision to forego having the ability to put that seat down when needed. You'll need that seat at the most inopportune time and end up having to leave the sub sitting somewhere or in the bed in bad weather. Just my 2 cents and something to keep in mind for the future.
 
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I'm not seeing a specific model of the sub but if I had to guess I'd say it's a single 4 ohm coil which should work great with that amp as you'll knock the overall power down to around 250 watts (in a perfect world, it will actually even be a little less which is good)

The only thing I'd very if you get it would be the voice coil/coils to see what the best wiring option will be for the amp

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At 2 ohms the amp "will" produce "500" watts at 4 ohms it will produce roughly half that. If the sub had dual 4 ohm voice coils that would be a 2 ohm load getting you back to the "500" watts. Again these watt figures are all in a perfect world. When you buy the amp it should come with a test sheet that will show more realistic figures. So according to that it appears to be a single 4 ohm voice coil which is fine.

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At 2 ohms the amp "will" produce "500" watts at 4 ohms it will produce roughly half that. If the sub had dual 4 ohm voice coils that would be a 2 ohm load getting you back to the "500" watts. Again these watt figures are all in a perfect world. When you buy the amp it should come with a test sheet that will show more realistic figures. So according to that it appears to be a single 4 ohm voice coil which is fine.

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Do Punch amps still dramatically underate their box numbers compared to real world test sheets? My old Punches gave real world results that almost quadrupled what the box said and each sheet had the serial number to show it was genuine to each amp. They ran very cool (real world) at 4ohms and I never had one shut off at 2 ohms either but I was also running thumb sized solid copper as both hot and ground wire and a 1.5 fared (sp?) capacitor also that I believe helped things run more efficiently. I had almost $100 (90s dollars) in just power wire.
Anyway I just wonder if Rockford Fosgate is as good as it was last century. I had 2 2 channel amps set to single channel each and 1 4 channel set to single channel 2 ohms for the Bazookas and 2 channel 2 ohms for the tweeters and wonder if that's still kinda the norm for ludicrous decibel levels without a whole bunch of amplifiers.
I can't for the life of me remember the brand name of the CD player but it was a company out of California that made them in house , came with a brass platten and ,an unheard of at the time, 2 volt output to the rca cables for each channel. I remember thinking it sounded like a flea market name but it was incredibly quiet in between tracks even at high volume and I had no equalizer because between the cards in the amps and bass/treble controls in the head unit I didn't need to clean up anything. Maybe you know the brand name from way back then?

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